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    • #15669
      Michael Harris
      Participant

      I just de-winterized my truck camper and my water pump comes on for about 2 seconds every 30 minutes or so to pressurize the tank. I’ve checked everywhere for leaks and can’t find a thing. Checked the indoor and outdoor shower and it looks all normal. I’ve read about a hole in the pump diaphragm but don’t know how to check that. Tomorrow I’m going to drain the tanks and re-pressurize to see if it continues. I also checked the toilet and can’t find a leak there. I’m left with the diaphragm and the pump strainer being loose. Anything else I can check? Could it just be an air bubble in the system and just needs a burp?

    • #15672
      Jefe4x4
      Moderator

      Harris,
      Where do you live and how cold does it get over winter? I’ve had some woes with the water pump IF i do not completely purge the system for winter. If the pump cycles on at intervals on standby it’s apparent that there is a bleed down somewhere, whether it’s an outflow or a backwash under pressure where the diaphragm is failing. I always have to bleed the air out of the hot water tank by cycling the pump on at 15 second intervals. Sometimes even with a full water tank it takes a while to completely purge the air. Opening the sink’s hot water tap when purging helps bleed the air. The air will be pressed out until a solid pressurized water stream emerges. I had a similar experience as yours and just replaced the pump which solved the problem. If you are good enough, you can tell by the sound of the pump whether it’s running at 100% or not. My original pump went through a cold winter with a trace of water left in it. That was enough to debilitate the pumps effectiveness.
      jefe

      2020 Ford F-350 XLT FX4 4WD SRW SB SC 7.3L Godzilla Gas TorqShift 10R140 397 amps dual Alt dual batts Frnt Dana 60; Rr Dana M275 E-locker 4.30's 4580/4320/4066# payload 7243# curb wt. 11,300# GVWR 5-er prepped. 2020 Northstar Laredo SC, 12v compressor fridge, cassette, 320w Solar sub zero insulation.

    • #15676
      Craig
      Participant

      I had the same water pump cycling issue a few years back. In my case it was the strainer just before the pump that was letting in the slightest amount of air. I always have to make sure that the strainer is threaded on very carefully and very tight.

      2008 2500hd Silverado Duramax
      2011 Northern Lite 8.5 lite
      2006 Wildcat 27bhwb fifth wheel
      2009 Lance 830 (sold)

      • #15677
        Michael Harris
        Participant

        Thanks! I haven’t checked the strainer yet. I’ve removed every access panel and checked every line and faucet. Didn’t find a drop of water. I did have a few drops under the anode so I tightened it but it still cycles on. It’s a 2016 Adventurer 80rb so it’s a pretty simple system. I do know there is a way to make a dummy line with an off valve so you can disconnect the cabin side line and use the dummy to isolate the pump. I’m in a small town so I don’t think I can fine the parts to make the blind dummy line. I think all that is left is the strainer and the pump diaphragm. Does the strainer just unscrew? It looks like the canister type that I wouldn’t have to take off line. Will I need to depressurize and drain the system to check the strainer?

      • #15678
        Michael Harris
        Participant

        Thanks! I do live a very cold climate sometimes but I use antifreeze to winterize my camer. I pay an RV place to do it. I’ve removed every access panel and checked every line and faucet. Didn’t find a drop of water. I did have a few drops under the anode so I tightened it but it still cycles on. It’s a 2016 Adventurer 80rb so it’s a pretty simple system. I do know there is a way to make a dummy line with an off valve so you can disconnect the cabin side line and use the dummy to isolate the pump. I’m in a small town so I don’t think I can fine the parts to make the blind dummy line. I think all that is left is the strainer and the pump diaphragm. Does the strainer just unscrew? It looks like the canister type that I wouldn’t have to take off line. I think I’m down to a pump problem?

    • #15679
      Craig
      Participant

      Yes it just unscrews. Water pump switch off. I usually turn the water pump switch off and open a tap for just a few seconds to take the serious pressure off the system before I mess with it.
      For winterizing, if just blowing out the lines with air the strainer is normally removed, emptied of water, and either left off for the winter(which is what I do) or put back on empty after the pump has been run dry.
      If antifreeze is used the strainer may never have been touched. But, it could still be a touch loose.
      Try removing it, clean out an debris and then screw it back on and turn on the pump to see if it holds pressure. Make sure the threads are clean as well. No grains of sand or anything like that.

      2008 2500hd Silverado Duramax
      2011 Northern Lite 8.5 lite
      2006 Wildcat 27bhwb fifth wheel
      2009 Lance 830 (sold)

      • #15680
        Michael Harris
        Participant

        Thanks! I’ll check it now for debris. I want to test to see if city water is flowing back into the tank but since it’s only recycling for a second every 30 minutes it would be a small amount flowing into the tank if the check valve was messed up.

    • #15979
      Mello Mike
      Keymaster

      Michael, what did you find out. Was the strainer the problem?

    • #15983
      Michael Harris
      Participant

      The strainer was frozen and cracked. Replacing that fixed it to an extent. It still cycled about every hour for 1 second. I applied city water to the pump and saw a very small trickle of water come out of the inlet on the tank side. That told me the bypass valve was blown. I took the pump apart and saw the o-ring for the bypass valve protruding into the pump. A new pump head and it now works perfectly. I learned a lot doing myself and was able to see all of my plumbing while checking for leaks. Checking for water leaks first is the best thing to do because of the potential damage. When I saw no water leaks on the faucet and sink side I realized it was from the pump to the tank. It’s actually harder to find that leak because it can be an air draw into the system. Luckily there is only a few joints, valves, fittings, tank, and pump to check. Strainer is the best first choice. Mine had turned white from freezing and cracking. My lesson in all of this? Take it somewhere else for winterizing or do it myself. Thank you guys for all the help!

    • #16032
      Craig
      Participant

      When it’s time to winterize come back on here and we can talk you through it. It is really not difficult. I camp in the winter sometimes so I can end up winterizing multiple times throughout the winter. I just blow out the lines with compressed air and can have it all done in less than 20 minutes.
      Even if you prefer using RV antifreeze the process is not difficult. If you learn to do this type of stuff yourself you get to know so much more about how your camper runs and therefore have more knowledge of how to fix things that come up like this.

      2008 2500hd Silverado Duramax
      2011 Northern Lite 8.5 lite
      2006 Wildcat 27bhwb fifth wheel
      2009 Lance 830 (sold)

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