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Would it be better to install a 3000watt inverter on my truck and use my 30 amp power cord and plug it in to my shore power port so I can power my refrigerator while driving . If I go the other route and use a DC to DC charger and charge just my truck camper batteries that will not run my refrigerator while driving
I have a 2019ram 3500 DRW and dual alternator with over 400 ampsAs you are aware the power cable that attaches to your truck trailer lights receptacle is just a trickle charger and if its like our camper won’t run the fridge without pulling from your camper batteries. Our solution is to pre-cool our fridge/freezer and add a few icepacks and run it like an icebox while we are on the road. If we stop for a couple of hours through the day we turn it on propane and let it cool again. Once we arrive at our destination it goes off icebox mode and back on propane and chills again until the next travel day. I guess it depends on your travel plans and how hot it is outside but this works pretty good for us.
Robert, If I understand you correctly it sounds like your refer may run on either 12v or 120v, though it’s not clear whether it’s a compressor type (and if so, whether it’s a super efficient Danfoss type) or of an electric resistance heating element type?
However in general terms, the fact that you have the extra alternator makes it possible to charge the batteries while underway so long as the ‘continuous output’ doesn’t exceed say 25% of the alternators rating (in your case that would mean about 100amps max DC) to prevent overheating the alternator (gets mighty hot beneath the hood!)…
For a 12v resistance element type refer (meaning uber inefficient!!) of about 6 cu/ft capacity, this could mean an hourly draw of up to about 19amps (but only about a quarter of that IF a Danfoss!!), though the actual hourly duty cycle would typically be less than 1 hr.
Having mused that, this would require a dc-to-dc converter (and wire of a sufficient size, while considering length), but since your truck is near new you’d likely need a new generation type dc-to-dc converter. Generally speaking, newer vehicles have energy saving alternators that are programmed to only charge the batteries to about of 80% SOC (state of charge), then lower the voltage to save on fuel – These are called ‘Smart alternators’ so you’d might need (pending research…) a dc-to-dc converter that is designed specifically to work with the newer type ‘smart alternators’… Victron makes one and there may also be others…
At this point you’d have power when underway assuming that your batteries (which would be acting as a in-and-out reservoir…) can maintain a sufficient reserve while keeping up with the load, so the next consideration might be whether to use 12v or 120v via the inverter…Just saying from afar…
Phil
Hi Phil
Thanks for the reply
I have a host mammoth which refrigerator runs on ac or gas I was just as interested in running my ac or microwave using my truck if needed to run these if I go with the DCto DC charger it would on run my two tv which are hook up to my truck camper 1000 watt inverter so I was wondering if I make my truck into a generator 3000 watts would that make sense when boondockingWell, I believe Imade a mistake on my previous calc’s, because I failed to consider that we’re talking about AC amps – dummy me!! So at a hypothetical 19amps (assuming that that is AC amps – pending confirmation…..) that would be about 190amps dc in which case I’d say no…
Sorry for my error!!
Phil
Well, I just checked on a Dometic 12v/120v Absorption refer 6 cu/ft model DM 2672, and the spec says 2.7a at 120v which would be about 10 times that, or 21a on 12v dc, so it looks like you’re back in the game : )…
Lots going on, sorry for any confusion…
Phil
Thanks Phil
What I’m trying to get at is based on TCA article in November about fords150 with a inverter package that you can get from 1500w to 7200 w and I was wondering if I can do the same on my ram 3500 diesel since it has two batteries and dual alternators or would I need separate batteries to do this if I go with a 3000w inverter.Bob
Ok, I did a cursory check of the Ford set-up which is a clean sheet of paper design with many electrical safeguards integrated into the system from the get-go (to protect costly and essential computer, etc), and the F 150 is not a diesel which requires a whole lot of starting amps to get up and going (via the two batts).
Personally, I would avoid doing that especially since you could have an inverter-battery set-up in your camper that would accomplish nearly the exact same thing (less auto-engine starting)…It just makes waaaay more sense to me to go the segregated inverter and battery in the camper route, which is what I’ve done…
Though there are several different inverter types out there (e.g. modified-sine, pure-sine, pass-through types, pass-through with built in charger and ATS, LF, HF, et al…) so much depends on your likes and what you plan to use the inverter for…
Know too that not all inverters of the same ‘advertised rating’ see certain kinds of loads (i.e. reactive loads) in quite the same way, so avoid the bargain inverters with cr#ppy electronics…
Some other considerations might be (if you choose to??…) how you plan to integrate the inverter into your camper’s electrical system (or a stand-alone inverter?), if so, which appliances you’d want to run from the inverter, battery type and capacity…
I’d also be thinking heavily about a sizable solar set-up…JMO
Phil
Here’s my problem
My host truck camper has 160 watt solar system and 1000 watt inverter from factory but both only charge my AGM batteries 400 amp hours which supplies my dc needs and just my ac tv but my two way refrigerator AC and microwave are not so if I go dc to dc charger or up grade my solar or install a 3000 watt inverter to replace my truck camper 1000 watt inverter it still not helping my other ac requirements that’s why I was wondering if I could use the truck to power my shore power connection via a 3000watt inverterWell, I’m not too sure I fully understand your goals or system, so this is what I think I know:
1)Truck is late model with a combined 400amp smart alternator
2)160w of OEM Solar (considering additional)
3)1000w inverter (assumed MSW – i.e. modified sine wave, no Charger function) supplies TV(AC), but not refer, AC unit, microwave or AC receptacles
4)AGM batteries (assumed 2, combined net capacity of about 100 usable amp/hrs)Asking if it makes sense to go with a 3000w inverter to be powered by batteries (charging via truck alternator), so as to power-up AC receptacles, refer, air cond, microwave and – inverter to power-up camper via shore power connection.
3 tons
Mourning Phil
I don’t mean to be a 24hr bug that works overtime
Yes my goal is to run all my ac outlets using my truck instead of my Honda 2000w generator my truck is a lot quitter then the Honda
I do have about 220 amps of usable power from truck camper batteries as each are 220 amp hours
If I upgrade my Truckcamper inverter to 3000 w I would have to re-wire in order to power my AC unit and microwave which my circuit breaker is attached to the wall call don’t know how hard it would be to rewire it
BobBob, I would advise a different approach because ‘idling’ a newer diesel engine for extended periods (say, only to make use of the alternator…) is not a recommended practice because it can lead to costly emissions issues such as EGR cooler plugging, DPF plugging, and even sooting of the turbo vanes ($$). As unintuitive as at first it might seem, newer diesels work better when under a heavier LOAD, and (as I recall), my Ram 6.7 owner’s manual cautions against prolonged idling. But regulated charging via the alternator when underway is a quite different scenario – JMHO
I’m not sure what your electrical skills are (or budget!), but FWIW over a time I’ve set-up my camper in a way that pretty much meets all of your goals, including running the microwave, 120v receptacles and even the 11kbtu air conditioner (for say an hour or two) from a 200a/hr *Lithium battery concurrent with 440w of solar. We mostly camp off-grid in the high Nevada desert for Polaris RZR OHV travels. I have a Honda 2200i but only use it very occasionally for extended air conditioner runs.
* much deeper DOD (depth of discharge) than same size AGM’s, faster harvest recovery, and with only minimal voltage sag.
So all is possible and doable but depends on one’s mindset, skillset, spare time and of course project budget.
Phil
Thanks Phil
Yes I Remember reading my 2016 owners manual and it warned about prolonged idling I’m sure my 2019 is the same what ever happen to running big diesel all night I guess modern technology took care of that
I will expand my solar starting off with a 200W suitcase and see about getting a wiring diagram so I could replace my 1000w to a3000w and power all my ac.needs
Safe travels
BobBob, Some points to ponder:
1) Consider a shore power pass-thru type inverter with ATS (auto transfer switch), or combo inverter *charger)…Pay attention to the inverters surge rating and surge duration – compare this to your air conditioner’s LRA (compressor locked rotor amp) spec’s in owners manual.
2) Plan to install your new inverter as close as possible to the batteries (6-7’ round trip cable length preferred) and I’d recommend AWG 2 aught (002) gauge to reduce voltage sag (e.g. avoid battery bottlenecks and low voltage alarms).
3) Consider adding a sub-panel to segregate the [battery sourced] inverter from powering up the OEM converter-charger, hot water heater, and the **refer
4) Consider increasing battery capacity and/or consider switching to lithium (LiFePo4).
5) Review your microwave oven’s ‘gross’ wattage spec (found in owners manual).
Consider downsizing to a more economical 900-1100 gross rating – they save some power and work very well indeed!* if switching to lithium (LFP), ensure that inverter-charger combo is LFP capable (may require a few other charging considerations).
** some refers ‘sense’ AC, then auto-switch from LPG
Phil
Thanks Phil
Good advice lots of information to digest as soon as the snow melts off my Truckcamper cover I’ll get in and look at manuals we had 50 in of snow in February up here in northern New Jersey I won’t be boon docking till the fall when I hope to go to lake Powell and Arizona hopefully we cancel last year do to COVID-19 instead we went all over New England which we hook up to shore power most of the time
Thanks for all your help
BobTest….
Would it be better to install a 3000watt inverter on my truck and use my 30 amp power cord and plug it in to my shore power port so I can power my refrigerator while driving . If I go the other route and use a DC to DC charger and charge just my truck camper batteries that will not run my refrigerator while driving
I have a 2019ram 3500 DRW and dual alternator with over 400 amps
I have the same interest in charging the camper’s batteries with the truck’s alternators, although what I’m after is to able to charge them when we are boondocking in the trees when there’s minimal charging from the solar panels. I hate the noise of running the Honda gen. I have the same dual alternators, 400 amps, in a f450 4x diesel. I’m getting a dc-dc 60 amp charger, the biggest I could find, that will connect to the truck’s battery and charge the camper’s. The alternators will sense the load and cover it.
Ford makes a high-idle module called a SEIC, Stationary Enhanced Idle Control, that allows the truck’s rpm to be goosed up when the truck is parked. Ford says it’s for PTO equipment and high electricity demands, like the application here. At about 1500 rpm, the alternators really start pumping out the amps. Ram might have something similar for your truck.
Hi Ken
Thanks for the response I’m more interested in charging my batteries while boondocking then running my refrigerator while driving since it really don’t use much propane while driving I wonder if I use my cruise control and run it at 1500 RPM should that be the same since I don’t think ram makes that SEIC
Bob
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