Home Forums Truck Camper Adventure Forum much love for Torklift StableLoads? / Upper, lower or BOTH?

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    • #38004
      john.
      Participant

      much love for Torklift StableLoads? / Upper, lower or BOTH?

      Hi all

      We have a 2020 F350 8 foot bed gasser, with the camper package (so an extra rear leaf spring)

      We get our new Hallmark 9.5’ pop up camper soon-ish. Loaded (wet) weight should be maybe about 2,800 lbs (approx) so no safety issue with our load,

      …however Hallmark thinks we MIGHT need or benefit from Torklift StableLoads. I believe they would install them for us, (i think for no extra charge) during the camper install.

      The camper will be on the truck 100% of the time. The truck will basically never be empty.

      From my research it looks as if Torklift StableLoads would improve the ride of our rig, and have lots of benefits, both comfort and maybe even emergency maneuver stability… for not a huge cost.

      Should we just err on the side of caution (and comfort) and go for the StabeLoads from the start?

      As Hallmark will install them for us, at no added charge I think, there is a *solid incentive* to just go for it.

      and if you were in our situation – would you go for Upper, lower or BOTH?

      The StableLoad website leads me to believe that the “LOWER OVERLOAD” solves 90% of all issues, so maybe just those might be a good place to start?

      any general thoughts or experiences to share?

      Thanks! 🙂

      https://www.torklift.com/rv/stableload

    • #38005
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      Hi John, My camper fully loaded for travel approaches 5k lbs, so not your typical off-road rig, and ultimately I ended up adding in another leaf but I’ve used both the upper and lower stable-loads that you point to, with success…

      In fact, even with my heavy camper aboard, the upper leaf still did not engage (go figure!), and I’ve heard this is also the case on Fords as well…So I would definitely go with the uppers if for no other reason than to engage this otherwise unusable upper leaf, in order to reduce potential sway…

      On my 16 Ram dually, the ’rear’ upper mounts were a bit tight to gain access to, but the lowers are easily accessible and uber simple to install, thus can quite easily be done (if needed…) at later date without any hassle…

      ‘Based on the weight of your camper’ I would probably skip the lowers for now and go with just the uppers, and then make an informed assessment – For a F350 with xtra leaf camper package, I believe you’ll be fine with uppers, and (biased by three trucks now and two campers later – lol), this incremental approach makes way more sense to me…Just saying…

      Phil

    • #38006
      john.
      Participant

      Hi John, My camper fully loaded for travel approaches 5k lbs, so not your typical off-road rig, and ultimately I ended up adding in another leaf but I’ve used both the upper and lower stable-loads that you point to, with success…

      In fact, even with my heavy camper aboard, the upper leaf still did not engage (go figure!), and I’ve heard this is also the case on Fords as well…So I would definitely go with the uppers if for no other reason than to engage this otherwise unusable upper leaf, in order to reduce potential sway…

      On my 16 Ram dually, the ’rear’ upper mounts were a bit tight to gain access to, but the lowers are easily accessible and uber simple to install, thus can quite easily be done (if needed…) at later date without any hassle…

      ‘Based on the weight of your camper’ I would probably skip the lowers for now and go with just the uppers, and then make an informed assessment – For a F350 with xtra leaf camper package, I believe you’ll be fine with uppers, and (biased by three trucks now and two campers later – lol), this incremental approach makes way more sense to me…Just saying…

      Phil

      Thanks much Phil… all good thoughts.

      Someone recently said to me “The upper address sag better and the lower address sway better” but i am not sure what that is based upon.

      I’ll check with Hallmark to see the cost for labor (if any) at install… this will be a factor.

      The lower ones need those 4 holes drilled, as current F350 have no holes, and i hear the holes are super tough to drill…. 🙁

      John

    • #38012
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      “The upper address sag better and the lower address sway better”

      Either way (all other notions here aside…), I would definitely go with the uppers which are required to ‘make usable’ the 1 ton’s upper leaf…

      BTW, my apologies per the drilling aspect…My Ram’s lower-most leaf (which per my spring guy is considered an overload) was OEM pre-drilled with a rubber plug installed – FWIW, the stable-load kit does come with a carbide tipped drill bit for this very purpose.

      Maybe others will chime in as well, but considering the relatively light weight of your Hallmark, and since you already have the x-tra camper leaf, I can’t imagine a need for the lowers. When I added the extra leaf, I took the lowers off. Had I loaded your camper, I seriously doubt I would have needed anything.

      Phil

    • #38028
      john.
      Participant

      Update – for those considering the lower StableLoads, they do now make a stainless version, for the Superduty. 

      However after speaking with various people about StableLoads…. I spoke with a trusted expert, and he said he had heard of more than one situation that people with campers who were using the lower StableLoads who *broke a spring* when using the lower StableLoads. 

      He said they can also can sometimes make noise, so he recommended against the lower StableLoads. 

      He did, however, say that the upper StableLoads are a *wonderful* product, and *if* it is needed, they work very, very well. 

      So just passing that opinion along. I have no further info. 

    • #38029
      Joel
      Participant

      If the camper will be on the truck all the time, you might try the felling wedges. See this link: https://halethorpephotography.smugmug.com/Truck-Camping/Towing-and-Weighing/ Scroll down and you will see my implementation. This has worked well for me for 2 years including a cross country trip. They are way cheaper than the stableloads. I think I paid about $10 each at tractor supply. They are less convenient than the stableloads to dis-engage though, which is why I ended up buying the stainless steel stable loads.

      As for upper or lower springs, my thinking is that the lowers engage first by design, so starting with the lowers seems logical to me.

      As for drilling the springs, slow slow slow. Use a cordless drill on the slow setting and turn the bit as slow as possible. I started the process using the corded drill, and it just would not go slow enough and burned up the bit immediately. I went the the cordless drill, with a standard steel bit no less, and it walked right through that spring steel. And spray it with WD40 or some other lubricant occasionally.

      Good luck,
      Joel

    • #38295
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      John,

      How about an update?

      Have you picked up your truck camper or made any mods to you truck?

    • #38296
      john.
      Participant

      John,

      How about an update?

      Have you picked up your truck camper or made any mods to you truck?

      Hi Stan – thanks for asking.

      I put DeeZee “no drill” aluminum running boards on. Very happy. Waited for a black friday sale and got a great deal from one of the many companies that sell them. Excellent running boards, no sag when i step on them, and will never rust.

      I also put a ‘smart’ ‘ecco brand’ variable loudness back up alarm on an upfitter switch – as i dont always want it on (so it wont disturb everyone at a campsite, for example) but nice to have in some situations.

      got one new, but damaged shipping box, off ebay for really cheap. Recommended.

      wont get the camper for months – still being built.

      have a good weekend. 🙂

    • #39120
      H2Power
      Participant

      Hi John,

      I purchased a truck and camper in 2018 and had similar questions about suspension mods and stable loads. My truck is a 2016 3500 Ram dually and my camper is an Arctic Fox 990. I purchased the camper at truck camper warehouse and asked them what they recommended for mods. Their recommendation was for the upper stable loads.

      I initially drove the vehicle with the stock suspension. My biggest complaint was porpoising … a small undulating input from the highway translated to large amplitude vertical travel on the rear suspension. Not pleasant.

      Although my truck is mostly dedicated to hauling the camper, I also unload the camper and drive the truck for transportation, sometimes for several weeks and 100’s or even a 1000 miles at a time. The 3500 already has a stiff suspension and making it any stiffer when empty only creates a harsher ride. After researching options, I went with the lower stable loads. I like being able to engage and disengage the stable loads as needed.

      I spoke with tork lift about upper or lower stable loads from a performance perspective, specifically asking if doing only one which do they recommend? Their recommendation was the lower. I too had concerns about broken springs as it appears the lower stable loads point load the springs, but I found no evidence of any reported issues based on internet searches.

      After installing the lower stable loads, which in my case was simple (no drilling), I was pleased with the result. The amplitude of the rear suspension motion was greatly reduced on an undulating road input and the stability during turns was improved. We noticed drivers flashing us a night, so I added Firestone airbags to give the rear a little bit of lift. At this point I am happy with the mods I selected. I probably have 15-20,000 mostly highway miles using the system so far.

      Your situation is a little different from mine. You already have an additional overload spring added to your rear axle and your camper is not terribly heavy. So your rig may be fine without additional mods. I recommend driving it as is before doing any mods. What complicates the situation – in a good way – is that the camper company is offering you the stable loads at time of delivery with no charge. Perhaps you can drive your rig first and then decide. If that isn’t practical, I would probably lean to the lower stable loads for several reasons. First, given the drilling is required on your truck, it is easier if you let the camper company do it in the comfort of their garage with the truck on a lift. Second, if you find you don’t need the extra help from the stable loads, you can disengage them and forget about them. Third, your current plan is to leave the camper on always, but plans sometimes change and then you have the option of engaging or disengaging the stable loads if needed. Fourth, take a good look at where the upper stable loads mount … on my RAM they would be simple to install. If that is the case on your truck you can easily add them later if needed though I doubt you will need them.

      I hope that helps.

      CMack

    • #41210
      WyoBull
      Participant

      I think I may have responded to you about this on a different forum, I’m not sure but I went with upper Stableloads on my truck. I also have airbags. I feel very comfortable and stable on and off road with my set up.
      I had thought about lower stableloads but quite honestly, did not want to mess with turning them in and out whenever I loaded the camper. I am not sure how much difference they would have made as I already have the camper package on my truck which includes the sway bar.

      2017 F350 Super Duty 4x4, CCSB, XLT Premium Package, 6.2 gas, 3.73 rear end, GVWR 11,300 lbs, Payload 4226 lbs, Silver Ingot, Camper Package, Split bench front seat, Upfitter switches, LED Box Lighting, Rear Step Tailgate, Air Lift 5000 Ultimate Airbags with Air Lift WirelessAIR on board compressor kit and remote, Torklift Upper Stableloads, Torklift tie downs w/ Fastguns
      2017 Northern Lite 8.11 QC SE

    • #41235
      ardvark
      Participant

      Never considered putting anything on our F350 when we had our Hallmark. Height has way more bearing on sway than weight and with the top down we traveled thousands of miles all over the country with never a problem even in those Wyoming winds. The Stableloads are so simple to add and take so little time, I would try it first with no changes. You might be surprised.

      Our hard body Northstar another story. CAT scales weights between the two only a couple hundred pounds difference, but way more sway. I made my own version of upper stableloads for about $20.00, not that it was so bad. it was just that the handling with the Hallmark spoiled us. 🙂

      Steve and Andra
      2012 F350 6.2 gasser SRW LB
      Fab Fours front and rear in case we run into a rhino
      2019 Northstar Laredo SC

    • #42544
      john.
      Participant

      Update – at pickup Hallmark put on Upper Stableloads – so the top “overload” spring is always slightly engaged. They thought it was good to do. I tend to agree…

      F350 (8 foot bed, crew cab)
      9.5″ Hallmark, lots of options.

      so driving the F350 with the Hallmark on is AMAZING. It drives like a big car. My better 1/2 also loves driving it.

      very happy, and with a few small issues with 3rd party stuff such as the heater (not Hallmark stuff) even then Matt and the whole team at Hallmark has been VERY responsive and super helpful. They live up to their stellar reputation.

      (as always – just call them – don’t email. They are amazing on the phone, but busy running around the shop, so a bit less good at email)

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