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I have been getting some great ideas from the group here, thanks.
I found a really low mile F450 for the horsepower, 16,500 gvw allows some freedom to overbuild. I built a 10′ low profile flat bed for the truck. Shell is is SIPs with 1″ foam & FRP exterior, floor and roof 1-1/2″ foam. Metal standing seam roof, 2- 160W modules with Rolls 210AH so far.
Heat and hot water can be wood fired via a Cubic wood stove, LP from a Dometic 6 gallon WH. I added a heat exchanger to the wood stove and Dometic to heat the water and a small hydronic HW fan convector. I’ll also have a 120V element in the tank and a small 12VDC element.So I have multiple fuel source options.
Cookstove is a restored Griswold LP unit. I’m fortunate to live 80 miles from a huge RV salvage yard. If ever you are near Joplin, Missouri stop in at Colaw RV salvage. Amazingly they still let you walk the yard to find parts. Windows, water tank & 32 gallon LP tank were found there.The copper is for the heat exchangers that fit against the wood stove, and around the water heater. Better heat transfer with conduction of the copper against the metal. Also for possible over-heat conditions. Just the heating loop is copper and braided stainless flex lines. All the water piping is pex, Pex is piped to the sink, shower, water tank etc, you can see some white and red under the sink. I’m a plumber by trade, so I know pex well. Thanks for the comments
I was a bit surprised to see the RV water heater manufacturers suggest that the T&P valve should seep when the tank pressure goes up, as thermal expansion mechanism? Seems like an odd way to use a safety relief valve and to protect a vessel. I
think I’ll add a small thermal expansion tank on mine. When you haul water, and spend time in the boonies every drop is precious.Here is a shot on the truck. Also a smaller trailer for moving it around when off the truck. I’m adding a nose cone for better aerodynamics, hopefully better fuel mileage. It cost me about 4 mpg from empty truck to TC mounted, 10.5- 11 with loaded camper.
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