Home Forums Truck Camper Adventure Forum Danfoss compressor 12V Refers: Dometic CR-1110 vs. Nova Cool R3800

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    • #26674
      John S
      Participant

      Mike,

      I read your great 2/4/16 article on the Danfoss unit. Based on what you know today, do you have any recommendations that differ from the article? I’m looking at 12V only, as I can’t see why the AC options makes sense, except for very long AC hookups.

      The Dometic nd Nova Cool look like about the same money.

      I’m doing a 14 month trip to South America in a small motorhome. My existing Norcold N611 absorption refer (built 2005) is too much of a gas hog plus won’t like the altitude and is likely unreliable. I have 300 watts of solar and 260 amp hours in my bank. I’m figuring 60-70 hours per day to run the refer.

      Do you still like your Dometic or have other thoughts?

      Thanks,
      John

    • #26778
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      My wife and I purchased the DOMETIC CFX 95DZW for our boat (cruiser type) and absolutely love it. It is dual compartment so you can have 2 fridges or 2 freezers or 1 fridge and one freezer. we have just taken it out on its first trip camping in the truck camper and it did awesome. We kept it in the back seat of the truck (with the seat up) and never wore down the battery after 4 days of camping and not charging. Hope this helps.

      Brad Beyer

    • #26781
      John S
      Participant

      My wife and I purchased the DOMETIC CFX 95DZW for our boat (cruiser type) and absolutely love it. It is dual compartment so you can have 2 fridges or 2 freezers or 1 fridge and one freezer. we have just taken it out on its first trip camping in the truck camper and it did awesome. We kept it in the back seat of the truck (with the seat up) and never wore down the battery after 4 days of camping and not charging. Hope this helps.
      Brad Beyer

      Thanks.

    • #26784
      Mello Mike
      Keymaster

      We still love our compressor refrigerator, but you can’t rely solely on solar to keep your batteries charged. You’ll need a quality backup like a genny or a dedicated alternator charging circuit during periods when the skies are overcast.

    • #26785
      John S
      Participant

      We still love our compressor refrigerator, but you can’t rely solely on solar to keep your batteries charged. You’ll need a quality backup like a genny or a dedicated alternator charging circuit during periods when the skies are overcast.

      Thanks Mike. This little Winnebago has a solenoid that allows the 180 amp chassis alternator to feed the batteries when the motor is running. I occurred to me that truck campers wouldn’t come this way, so I’m hoping this meets the criteria you were thinking about. Also, I carry a Honda 2000 that feeds into a Parallax 40amp charger/converter that’s 3 staged. Neither of these sources achieve more than 14.4 volts, so I’m counting on my MPPT controller and 300 watt high voltage panel to polish off the batteries at higher voltages.

      I’m actually 75% decided to buy a ground deployed “suitcase” 120 watt solar array that comes with a little PWM 10am controller, so 420 total panel watts. This might be good for 4-5 amps in decent sun. Because all my solar wattage is in one 300 watt residential panel, I figured this little 120 watt array might be a good backup also, in case of damage to the single 300 watt panel. It’s a ACOPOWER 120W Portable Solar Panel, 12V Foldable Solar Charger with 10A Charge Controller in Suitcase. I’ve never used a “suitcase” thing, but this gets good reviews: https://www.amazon.com/ACOPOWER-Portable-Foldable-Controller-Suitcase/dp/B074ZR3RNP

      I’m nervous about a 60 AH daily draw for the CRX 110, but I’m willing to give it a try. I bought one last Sunday.

    • #27902
      Anonymous
      Inactive

      I install my Dometic CR1110 in 2013 and no regrets. I do have a small portable generator for when we stay at one place for a few days. FYI most of the compressor refrigerator use the Danfoss compressor. One of the reasons I when with the Dometic CR1110 refrigerator is that it already came equipt with the 220/120v to 24/12Vdc built into the electronic control box and the battery cut of was set at 10.5 Vdc

      https://www.boatandrvaccessories.com/products/waeco-cr-1110u-f-refrigerator-freezer

    • #27982
      John S
      Participant

      We still love our compressor refrigerator, but you can’t rely solely on solar to keep your batteries charged. You’ll need a quality backup like a genny or a dedicated alternator charging circuit during periods when the skies are overcast.

      Thanks Mike! I have a Honda 2000 and a solenoid that puts the chassis battery and the house batteries in parallel when the engine is running. I have a Bosh 150 amp alternator that, from what various folks with these sprinter based motorhomes are telling me, outputs about 20-25 amps to the house batteries while driving. I have 580 watts of solar, but it will come down to dodging the grey skies, as you say. Thanks

    • #31237
      Joel
      Participant

      Looks like the Novacool power consumption is less at 2.2 Amps max. Of course, the actual power consumption is all about the duty cycle in real world use.

      I’m confused though. In Mike’s article, it says”

      “Personally, I’ve found that having a 340 watt solar power system and a 220 amp hour battery bank is more than large enough to run my compressor refrigerator and meet all of our other electrical needs.”

      But in this post it says:

      “you can’t rely solely on solar to keep your batteries charged”

      So I assume the cold hand of reality has shown more power consumption than was originally expected. I would love to hear more details regarding average consumption (both overnight and 24hr) and how many days Mike can go before having to supplement the solar.

      I thought I would be good with my 200 watts of panel and 240 amp hours of battery, but now I’m not so sure.

    • #31598
      John S
      Participant

      Looks like the Novacool power consumption is less at 2.2 Amps max. Of course, the actual power consumption is all about the duty cycle in real world use.
      I’m confused though. In Mike’s article, it says”
      “Personally, I’ve found that having a 340 watt solar power system and a 220 amp hour battery bank is more than large enough to run my compressor refrigerator and meet all of our other electrical needs.”
      But in this post it says:
      “you can’t rely solely on solar to keep your batteries charged”
      So I assume the cold hand of reality has shown more power consumption than was originally expected. I would love to hear more details regarding average consumption (both overnight and 24hr) and how many days Mike can go before having to supplement the solar.
      I thought I would be good with my 200 watts of panel and 240 amp hours of battery, but now I’m not so sure.

      I’ve also learned more since my post and responses to Mike. Namely, I’m now concerned that my alternator won’t get my 260 Ah battery bank up to full charge. Because my alternator is about 13.5 to 13.6 at the house battery bank (through the solenoid putting the house and chassis batts in parallel) while driving, that’s not enough to ever get out of bulk and into absorption, because my battery spec is 14.8 on that set point. Even worse, my solar system will “see” the 13.5ish voltage coming from the alternator at the house battery terminals and just go to sleep, because it will think the house bank is full.

      Because I’ll be in South America for 14 months in often overcast, wet conditions, plus I like to stay in one spot for 6-10 days, I’m concerned. I’m currently evaluating installing a 12V Battery to 12V Battery (B2B) charger in the form of either the Sterling BB1230 or BB1260 – 30 and 60 amp chargers. I wish there were more options, but the only ones seem to charge multiple banks, whereas I want to charge only one 260 Ah bank.

      Anyone have experience with battery to battery chargers to get the voltage up coming from the alternator, plus provide a staged and custom charge profile?

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