Better Insulated Campers

[Bob Minor]

Very new to this, don’t have a truck or camper. But seriously considering with a view to weekend use initially (to get used to it all) and then possible full-time (8 months + per year) in about 5 years’ time.

We live in Canada and would like to spend as much time as possible up here (or in the US mountains) which means I’d be looking for a very well insulated camper. Truck will be 4×4, not too concerned about that, plenty available.

I’m thinking we’ll need something that retains heat and operates well in temperatures down to, say, -10C (14F)?

I like the Cirrus campers and it seems like Hallmark (wood frame), Bigfoot, Northern Lite and Arctic Fox are all possible. But which of these, or any others that I haven’t looked at, would people recommend?

[ardvark]

So dead of winter camping, really? That sounds extreme.

Steve and Andra
2012 F350 6.2 gasser SRW LB
Fab Fours front and rear in case we run into a rhino
2019 Northstar Laredo SC

[Bob Minor]

Not really dead of winter but, as an example, it’s possible for the weather change very quickly here, big temperature changes of 20-30C in 24 hours is not unusual in the Fall and Spring. So, if we’re out in the middle of nowhere and the temperature is +5C, it could easily drop to -15C in less than 24 hours. I just think it would be better to be prepared.

[Anonymous]

I agree, insulation is quite important, summer or winter. One area that I think has been lacking is to provide the rubber mat on the bottom of the camper from the manufacturer. It is widely known that this is an excellent way of protecting both the floor of the truck bed as well as the bottom of the camper. Plus it does add some insulation to the camper.

[Bob Minor]

Thanks – that’s a good observation. There must be other materials that can do a similar job.

[ardvark]

I agree insulation is important, but I am not sure it will turn the tables on -10 degrees for any period of time and I can’t imagine how much condensation would be running off the windows and maybe the walls. Having camped below freezing in a number of RVs, surviving is not an issue, but I found comfort certainly was!

My two cents

Steve and Andra
2012 F350 6.2 gasser SRW LB
Fab Fours front and rear in case we run into a rhino
2019 Northstar Laredo SC

[Coly Hope]

Look around the internet and you will fin people who manage to camp in pop up campers in extreme conditions and do just fine.

[Jefe4x4]

I’ve come to the conclusion that any truck camper manufacturer with the word, “Northern” in their moniker is a good bet for winter camping. I’m also of the opinion that a hard side camper has the edge when it comes to winter camping/living. 4-season campers have come a long way in the past 5 years, with euro style instant on hot water heaters, dual pane windows, aluminum, no rot aluminum frames, and space age layered insulation. The problem is they are heavier than the 3 season types. I like our 1998 Lance Lite a lot, mostly because it is the narrowest, least tall, lightest hard side camper made at the time, and we’ve gotten our money’s worth out of it ($6500 used/3 years old used 3 times; now about 225 nights in the box) but I’m looking around for a replacement as a 20 year old camper, no matter how well cared for is getting long in the tooth, especially the way we man handle it off road. Our 165-s Lance has small tanks. That’s what keeps the weight down. It also has very little insulation. That also keeps the weight down.
Here’s a video link to last week’s run up the Diablo Drop Off:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/bfj5y93wsd7vfkw/jefe%20does%20sand%20hill%20at%20dry%20wash%20of%20the%20devil%20Anza.m4v?dl=0
and a full trip report with pics and vids here:
https://forums.goodsamclub.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/29610085.cfm
Choosing the right 4-season camper goes hand in hand with the choice of truck to carry it. Always, always, always buy more truck than you think you will need. Did I say always? If you plan to live in said camper, you want more space and amenities than a week-ender would need. Subscribe to any number of RV/truck camper forums and do a diligent search for all your queries. You are in a good position to learn from others’ mistakes.
jefe

2020 Ford F-350 XLT FX4 4WD SRW SB SC 7.3L Godzilla Gas TorqShift 10R140 397 amps dual Alt dual batts Frnt Dana 60; Rr Dana M275 E-locker 4.30's 4580/4320/4066# payload 7243# curb wt. 11,300# GVWR 5-er prepped. 2020 Northstar Laredo SC, 12v compressor fridge, cassette, 320w Solar sub zero insulation.

[Don Nelson]

The wood-framed and insulated Capri Cowboy has been used often around 15F in the Beartooth mountains. Winter tent camping experience in my youth and an extra-large -40 sleeping bag are useful. The propane heater is actually too warm, even on low, so I keep the bottle valve off. Biggest problems to date have been one instance of a frozen Porta-Potti and several of split water cans.

[Coly Hope]

From what I have heard Bigfoot and Northern Lite are the best insulated truck campers. If it’s a pop up you are looking for then Hallmark and Outfitter have an arctic pack and have heard a lot of good things about them.

[Steve Hericks]

I’m a former RV engineer. There are MANY issues when specifying a true 4 season camper but it has to start with an effective the envelope. Without that, no ‘options’ will make it an effective 4 season vehicle. 1) Insulation: Most manufacturers try to sell ‘4-season insulation’ but few do whats necessary. First, understand how to measure the effectiveness of ‘insulation’ by ‘R-value’. This is a combination of insulation type and thickness. The best insulation types are foams, specifically, polyurethane (spray foam) is ~R-7/inch. Poly-iso cyanurate is about R-6/inch and Extruded Polystyrene or XPS is about R- 5.5/inch (not expanded polystyrene or EPS which is also called ‘styrofoam’ which is R-4/inch). Fiberglass is about R-3.5/inch and is often used. Since RV walls are necessarily thin, you need the best insulation you can get. The best you can probably hope for is a 2″ wall with ~R-11. 2) Insulated aka double pane glass. This is usually an upgrade but it is essential. This is the only way to reduce heat loss and condensation. You need to know specifically the R-value of walls, floors, ceilings and windows to make an informed decision on the true ‘4 season’ capability. Do not rely on an opinion of what seems to work for someone else. One big neglected issue that I will not go into is condensation inside the walls. This destroys insulation. Steve

[Anonymous]

Bob,

We camped many, many long weekends with our 2007 Arctic Fox 990 in high teens to high 20s F without any problems. The one mod we had to make was adding a 2” thick rigid foam sheet of insulation under the mattress. Condensation was a problem with the single pane windows and we had to make sure the weep holes were kept clear and crack open a window to lessen the condensation. We’d stay comfortable inside wearing a few more layers than we would at home, but the extra clothing helped the two 30# propane tanks last longer. Only once did we have a problem with a propane tank freezing up.

We now have a 2017 Arctic Fox 1150 which is the same model only two feet longer and now made with a barreled ceiling four inches taller in the center. Also, this time we added the double pane windows having enjoyed them so much in a 5th wheel because of their sound deadening and no condensation. So far, I’ve only had two nights in the very low 20 F and on both nights I had trouble with the propane tanks freezing up and condensation on the windows. I think considering the small space of a truck camper, condensation is a lot harder to control without cracking open a window than in a larger RV. I’m not sure why I was having trouble this time with the propane freezing up. I think it was due to a less than full primary tank to begin with and not turning on the heat until the interior temp was already in the mid-20s F. We have camped a number of times in the low 30s F and noticed the insulating effect of the double pane windows. They also keep it much quieter on the inside when at truck stops, camp grounds, etc where it can get pretty noisy if you’re trying to rest or sleep.

Good luck with your search and your dreams!

[Anonymous]

The big thing to lookout for is freezing of the holding tanks and of the dump valves…My Eagle Cap came with a 2” heater duct in the basement area, but due to size, routing and internal hose constrictions, basement temp checks revealed that it flowed almost no air whatsoever… So I ran a new 4” ducted dryer hose from the furnace plenum (inside cabinetry) into the basement and temps regularly remained only about 10 deg F lower than the camper’s interior…

Another thing is to place a 1”x4’x8’ foam sheathing board (from Home Depot) in the truck bed beneath the camper and rubber mat…This offers more insulation value than just a hard rubber mat alone…

3 tons

[Anonymous]

Oop’s, another thing I’ve done is to use foam pipe insulation around the fresh water plumbing wherever the piping is accessible…

3 tons

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